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What are cosmetics, cosmetology, cosmeceuticals & toiletries?

Cosmetics: Cosmetics are defined as substances that clean, beautify, promote attractiveness or alter the appearance without affecting the body’s structure or function. The definition includes skin care products such as creams, lotions, powders, nail polish, face powder, vanishing cream etc.

According to drug and cosmetics act, the cosmetics are defined as the materials or articles which are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, sprayed, introduced in or otherwise for cleansing, protecting, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering appearance.

Cosmetology: Cosmetology is a science which deals with the formulation, manufacturing and quality control of cosmetic products. A cosmetic only clean, beautify or stops the development of bad odor but it doesn’t increase or decrease the color of the skin. Sometime, it only has medicinal effect. They can also be called drug because they are used to bring changes and enhance the health of oral cavity.

Cosmetology may be defined as the branch of science that deals with the formulation, preparation, properties, toxicities and application of cosmetics. So the substances which are used beautification of exposed of body to improve appearance are called cosmetology. e.g. Cold cream, vanishing cream, lipstick, toothpaste, shampoo etc.

Cosmeceuticals: Cosmeceuticals describe those products that are marketed as cosmetics but have drug like effects. Or

Cosmeceuticals refers to the combination of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits

Toiletries: An article or preparation used in washing and taking care of one's body, such as soap, shampoo, and toothpaste. Or

Any article or preparation used in cleaning or grooming oneself, such as soap, shaving cream, toothpaste.

Classification of Cosmetics: Generally cosmetics can be classified in the following way:

1. According to their functions,

2. According to their uses,

3. According to their physical nature

According to their function: According to the function cosmetics are again subdivided in the following groups:

a) Decorative function e.g. Lipstick, nail polish.

b) Corrective function e.g. dry cream and heavy face powder.

c) Protective function e.g. dry cream and heavy face powder.

d) Curative or therapeutic function e.g. Antiperspirant and hair preparations. 

According to their uses: According to their uses cosmetics are again subdivided in the following classes:

a) For the skin e.g. powder, cream, lotion, deodorant bath and cleansing preparation, make up etc.

b) For the hair e.g. shampoo, hair tonic, hair dressing, shaving preparations etc.

c) For the nails e.g. nail polish, nail conditioner, polish remover etc.

d) For the teeth & mouth e.g. dentitries and mouth washes.

e) Border line product e.g. foot powder, insect repellants, eye products etc.

According to their physical nature:

a) Sprays e.g. perfume, after shave spray, hair spray etc.

b) Emulsions e.g. cold cream, liquid cream.

c) Jellies e.g. hand jelly, hair jelly etc.

d) Mucilage e.g. hand lotion, body lotion etc.

e) Oils e.g. hair oils, body oils etc.

f) Cakes e.g. rouge compacts (face powder).

g) Pastes e.g. tooth paste, deodorant paste.

h) Powder e.g. talcum powder, tooth powder.

i) Soaps e.g. shaving soap, toilet soap etc.

j) Solution e.g. after shave lotion, astringent lotions etc.

k) Sticks e.g. lipsticks, deodorant sticks etc.

l) Suspension e.g. liquid powder, cosmetics etc.

Properties of good cosmetics: A good cosmetics should have the following properties:

a) All the raw materials used should be of highest quality and they should be standardized for their qualities.

b) All H2O used in cosmetics should be distilled or purified H2O.

c) The color used should be the permitted color.

d) The perfumes used should be compatibles with other ingredients of the preparation.

e) They should be tolerated all conditions particularly extreme of temperature and humidity condition to which they are likely to encountered in the market.

f) Should be economic. 

Skin: 

The skin is the largest organ of the body with a total area of about 20 square feet. The skin and its derivatives (hair, nails, sweat and oil glands) make up the integumentary system. One of the main functions of the skin is protection. It protects the body from external factors such as bacteria, chemicals, and temperature

FUNCTION OF SKIN:

1. Control the loss of valuable water from the body

2. Protect the body from the harmful radiations of the sun.

3. Control the entry of foreign particle.

4. Prevent the entry of harmful microorganisms.

5. Caution the body against the mechanical shock from bumps and knocks.

6. Regulate the loss of heat from the body.

7. Receive information from the environment and relay it to the brain.

8. By this color, texture, odor, transmit social and sexual signals to others.

Additionally the skin must last a lifetime. It must not wear out; it must maintain itself against the ravages of wear and tear.

The skin must always fit. It must grow as its owner grows and be resilient and elastic enough to stretch and contract to allow the body freedom of movement.

 

The Epidermis:

The outer layers of the epidermis are body frontier to the outside world, protecting the living tissue within from the ravages of the environment.

1 The drying effect of the air

2 The harmful rays of the sun

3 Harmful organisms- particularly bacteria

4 Chemical substances dangerous to living cells

The underlying layers are concerned with the replacement of the outer layers to counter wear and tear.

The layers of the Epidermis:

It is customary to recognize four layers of the epidermis (see figure in bellow). From the outside these are:

The horny layer The stratum corneum

The granular layer The Stratum granulosum

The prickle cell layer The stratum spinosum

The basal layer The stratum germinativum or basale

An additional layer- the clear layer or stratum lucidum- is recognizable only in the skin of the palms and soles. This is between the granular and horny layers.

The Epidermis as a guard against harmful rays:

The horny layer is greatly involved in protecting the body against the ultra-violet rays of the sun which is excess are lethal to living cells.

The rays are particularly reflected by each of the layers of the horny layer cells so that very little penetrates the full thickness of the epidermis. Also involved in screening against ultra-violet is the brown melanin pigment of the skin.

The epidermis as a guard against the entry of chemicals:

The sebum covering the skin is basically hydrophobic and tends to discourage not only water but also water-soluble chemicals from passing through it. The keratin of the horny layer is essentially hydrophilic and similarly tends to hinder the passage of oils and oil-soluble substances into the skin. Between them they from a barrier to the entry of chemical substances through the skin, The barrier is however far from perfect and the skin is permeable to a wide variety of substances. Hence there is an irritation system which should respond when undesirable substances do enter.

The epidermis as a protection against bacteria:

The horny layer acts as a physical barrier against entry of bacteria. There are however pores in the horny layers/ the hair follicles, through which bacteria could gain entry. The sebum on the skin is deliberately acidic and bacteria are inhibited by acids. The sebaceous glands are able to destroy any bacteria that might enter then through the hair follicles. 

The Glands of the Skin:

The skin has three types of glands -- the sebaceous gland and two types of sweat gland called eccrine and apocrine glands.

Eccrine sweat glands and temporal control:

The human body must maintain an internal temperature of 37ºC, the optimum temperature for body chemistry or metabolism. Body chemistry does produce heat, deliberately so if necessary and excess heat must be brought by the blood to the skin to be dissipated to the environment.

The skin plays, therefore, a major part in controlling body temperature. The blood vessels in the skin dilate, or open up to allow a greater flow of heat-carrying blood to the skin. The heat is then dissipated in two ways. Some of it will be lost by radiation from the skin, but most for it will be used to evaporate perspiration or sweat from the skin.

The eccrine sweat glands are supplied with water from the blood. The gland consists of a coiled tube line with cells which pass the water through their cell membranes into the tube.

The water is secreted on to the surface of the skin to be evaporated by the heat of the body. An eccrine gland is a gland which secretes a watery fluid in this manner.

Eccrine sweat glands are found in all of the skin. They are most numerous on the palms and soles where there are up to 500 per² of skin area. On the back there are 80 per cm².

Ecrrine sweat is 99.5 percent water plus 0.5 percent salt and urea. There is a common tendency to call sweat gland activity ‘excretion’. Sweat is however secreted for a purpose- to control body temperature. Secretion is for a purpose excretion is to eliminate waste.

  

Apocrine sweat glands:

The apocrine sweat glands are far more localized than the ecrrine glands. They are found in the axilla (the armpit), the groin and surrounding the mouth and the nipples. Their ducts open not directly on to the surface of the skin but into hair follicles in these areas.

The apocrine glands only become active from the age of puberty. They secret a milky sweat containing much organic matter, They do this by forming th sweat in vesicles or membrane-enclosed bubbles within the cells of the glands which then open to release the sweat into the tubule of the gland.

The output of apocrine sweat is not controlled by body temperature but by the body’s hormonal activity, it seems that the sweat is probably a chemical social signaling substance: a pheromone.

What is definitely known is that apocrine sweat is prone to bacterial decay with the result that it does give chemical signals- unpleasant ones- the famous ‘B.O.’ if one does not look closely at one’s personal hygiene. 

Sebaceous glands:

Each hair follicle, whether or not it contains a hair has associated with it a sebaceous gland. Its function is to secret sebum, the waxy, oily mixture which spreads along the hair to give it gloss and spreads over the horny layer of the epidermis to act as an emollient to keep it feeling soft. It waterproofs the skin to help it retain its moisture.

The sebum is a mixture of fatty acids, fatty alcohols and ester or waxes plus lactic acid and lactic slats which are responsible for maintaining the acid pH of the skin- pH 4.5 to 6. This is the ‘acid-mantlc’ of the skin, in these area conditions the keratin protein of the horny layer is at its most compact and at its most effective as a barrier. Also in these acid conditions bacteria are at their least active and thus unlikely to cause trouble.

The cells of the sebaceous glands from the sebum within themselves, they can also be destroying any other cells that happen to get into the glands, such as any bacteria which might enter the follicle or the cells of the root sheath which covers the root of the hair, which then falls away as it grows from the follicle. In back skin, the sebaceous glands are more numerous than in white and far eastern skin and produce a sebum richer in fats.

Skin color: 

The skin is quite translucent and through it can be seen the red of the blood in the dermal blood vessels and the yellow of the subcutaneous fat. The main component of skin color is the varying degree of brown contributed by melanin.

Melanin is produced by the molanocytes which are interspersed among the germinative cells of the Stratum germinativum. These amoeba-like cells put out projects called pseudopodia through which they inject granules of melanin into the newly produced cells of the epidermis. In dark races, the melanocytes are continuously active, producing strongly colored when they are produced, the color extends through all the layers of the epidermis. 

SKIN DISEASES

The skin is one of the most vulnerable organs of the body. Although the skin disease are not life threatening but they are uncomfortable and may cause chronic disabilities. In addition because the skin is so visible, skin disorders can lead to psychological stress. There are many disorders of the skin that require clinical care by a physician or other health care professional. The common skin disorders are-

i. Acne

ii. Bed Sores

iii. Calluses & Corns

iv. Dry skin

v. Keratosis Pilaris

vi. Pityriasis Rosea

vii. Psoriasis

viii. Rosacea

ix. Sebaceous Cysts

x. Skin Cancer

Acne

What is Acne?

Ans: Acne is a disorder of the hair follicles and sebaceous glands. The glands become clogged leading to pimples and cysts. Acne is very common disease which most often begins in puberty. During puberty, the male sex hormones androgens increases in both boys and girls causing the sebaceous glands to become more active resulting in increased production of oil (sebum).

How does acne develop?

 Development of Acne: The sebaceous glands produce sebum that normally travels via hair follicles in the skin surface. However, skin cells can plug the follicles, blocking the sebum coming from the sebaceous glands. When follicles become plugged, skin bacteria called Propionibacteriaum acnes or P acnes begin to grow inside the follicles, causing inflammation. Acne progresses in the following manners:

1. Incomplete blockage of the hair follicle results in blackhead which is semisolid, black plug.

2. Complete blockage of the hair follicle results in white heads which is semisolid, white plug. Normally infection & irritation causes the formation of white heads.

Eventually, the plugged follicle bursts, spilling oil, skin cells & bacteria onto the skin surface. In turn, the skin becomes irritated and pimples or lesions begin to develop. The basic acne location is called a comdeo. [Comedo- collection of dead cells in an obstructed sebaceous duct.

 

Types of Acne: Acne can be superficial (pimples without obsesses) or deep which include pimples pushdown into the skin causing pus filled cysts that rupture and result in lager abscesses.

What causes Acne?

Ans: Rising hormone levels during puberty may cause acne. In addition acne is often inherited. Other causes of Acne may include the following:

1. Change of hormone level: Hormone level change during the menstrual cycle in women.

2. Drugs: Certain drugs such as lithium, barbiturates, and corticosteroids increase or causes acne.

3. Fatty Materials: Oil & grease from the scalp mineral or cooking oil, certain cosmetics.

4. Bacteria inside pimples.

Acne can be aggravated by squeezing the pimples or by scrubbing the skin too hard. Skin may also become irritated with friction or pressure from helmets, backpacks or tight collars. Some environmental conditions such as pollution or humid conditions can also irritate the skin and may cause acne.

Treatment of Acne: Generally specific treatment for acne will be determined by physician, which should be based on-

1. Patient age, overall health & medical history.

2. Severity or extent of the acne. 

3. Patient’s tolerance for specific medications, or procedures or therapies.

4. Expectations for the course of the condition.

5. Patient’s opinion or preference.

The goal of the acne treatment is to minimize scarring and improve appearance. Treatment for acne includes topical or systemic drug therapy. Depending on the severity of acne, topical medications (applied to the skin) or systemic medications (taken orally) may be prescribed by the physician. In some cases, a combination of both topical and systemic medications may be recommended.

Topical medications to treat acne: Topical medications are often prescribed to treat acne. Topical medications can be applied in the form of-

-cream, 

-gel

-lotion or solution

Examples include

Medicine Action

Benzoyl peroxide Kills the bacteria Propionibacterium acnes.

Antibiotics Helps stop or slow down the growth of Propionibacterium acnes and reduces inflammation.

Tretinoin Stops the development of new acne lesions and encourages cell turnover, unplugging pimples.

Adapalene Decreases comedo formation.

Systemic medications to treat acne: Systemic medications or oral antibiotics are often prescribed to treat moderate to severe acne and may include the following-

-Doxycycline

-Erythromycin

-Tetracycline

.

Bed Sores

What are bed sores?

Ans: Bed sores can occur when a person is bedridden, unconscious, unable to sense pain or immobile.

Bed sores are ulcers that occur on areas of the skin that are under pressure from lying in bed, sitting in a wheelchair or wearing a cast for a prolonged period of time.

 

Why does a bed sores develop?

Ans: A bed sore developes when blood supply to the skin cut off for more than two to three hours. As the skin dies, the bed sore first starts as a red, painful area, which eventually turns purple, left untreated, the skin can break open and become infected. A bed sore can become deep, extending into the muscle. Once a bed sore develops, it is often very slow to heal. Bed sores often occur in the buttocks area or on the heels of the feet. 

Prevention of Bed Sores: Bed sores can be prevented by inspecting the areas of redness which is the first sign of skin breakdown. Methods of preventing bed sores and preventing progression of existing bed sores include the following:

1. Frequent turning and repositioning

2. Providing soft padding in wheelchairs and beds to reduce pressure.

3. Providing good skin care by keeping the skin clean and dry.

Treatment for Bed Sores: Specific treatment of a bed sore is determined by the physician based on the severity of the condition. Treatment may be more difficult once the skin is broken and may include the following-

1. Removing pressure from the affected area.

2. Protecting the wound with medicated gauze or other special dressings.

3. Keeping the wound clean.

4. Transplanting healthy skin to the wound area.

5. Medication that is antibiotics to treat infections. 

Calluses and Corns

What are calluses and corns?

Ans: Calluses are protective pads made up of the thickened upper layer of skin due to repeated rubbing of the area.

Corns are small calluses that develop on the top of the toes due to pressure or rubbing against shoes or other toes.

 

Treatment for calluses and corns: Calluses are usually painless but corns can be quite painful. Sometimes, corns are confused with warts. Calluses can be avoided by removing the source of the rubbing and thinning the calluses with a pumice stone. Treatment for corns may include-

-Applying pads around the corn area

-Wearing more comfortable shoes

-Surgery

Dry skin

What is dry skin?

Ans: Dry skin is a very common skin condition usually characterized by irritated skin and itchiness. Dry skin often worsens in the winter, when the air is cold and dry. In addition, frequent bathing can aggravate dry skin. It may become flaky or scaly.

However, dry skin symptoms may resemble other conditions or result from other disorders such as underactive thyroid or AIDS.

 

Treatment for dry skin: Treating dry skin may be as simple as keeping the skin moist by taking fewer baths and using ointments or creams that keep the moisture in. Treatment may also include-

1. Avoiding harsh soaps, detergents and perfumes which tend to dry the skin.

2. Avoiding rubbing or scratching the skin which can aggravate the symptoms and cause infection

3. Applying a salicylic acid solution for cream if the skin is scaly.

Keratosis pilaris

What is keratosis pilaris?

Ans: Keratosis pilaris is a common skin disorder characterized by small, pointed pimples. The pimples usually appear on the upper arms, thighs and buttocks. The condition worsens in the winter and usually clears up in the summer. Keratosis pilaris has no known cause but tends to run in families.

 

Treatment for keratosis pilaris: Usually no treatment is necessary for keratosis pilaris, since it normally clears up by itself. Treatment may include-

1. Petroleum jelly with water. Cold cream or salicylic acid (which removes the top layer of the skin) to flatten the pimples.

2. A tretinoin cream which is chemically related to vitamin-A.

Pityriasis Rosea

What is pityriasis rosea?

Ans:  Pityriasis rosea is a mild, but common skin condition characterized by scaly, pink, inflamed skin. The condition can last from four to eight weeks and usually leaves no lasting marks.

What causes pityriasis rosea?

Ans: The cause of pityriasis rosea is not known but it is commonly believed to be caused by a virus. It is usually seen children, adolescents and young adults.

Symptoms of pityriasis rosea: Pityriasis rosea usually starts with a pink or tan oval area (sometimes called a herald or mother patch) on the chest or back. The main patch is usually followed by smaller pink or tan patches elsewhere on the body usually the back, neck, arms and legs. The scaly rash usually lasts between four to eight weeks will disappear without treatment.

The following are the common symptoms of pityriasis rosea. However, each individual may experience symptoms differently. Symptoms may include-

-headaches

-Fatigue

-Aches

-Itching

 

Diagnosis of pityriasis rosea: Pityriasis rosea is usually diagnosed based on a medical history and physical examination. The rash of pityriasis rosea is unique and the diagnosis is usually made on the basis of a physical examination. In addition, the physician may order the following tests to help aid in the diagnosis-

a) Blood test

b) Skin biopsy-The removal of some of the diseased skin for laboratory analysis. The sample of the skin removed after local anesthetic is administered.

Treatment of pityriasis rosea: Specific treatment for pityriasis rosea will be determined by the physician based on-

a) Patients age, overall health and medical history.

b) Extent of the rash.

c) Patient’s tolerance for specific medications, procedures or therapies.

d) Expectations for the course of the rash.

The goal of treatment for pityriasis rosea is to relieve symptoms associated with the conditions such as itching. Treatment may include-

a) Medicated lotion and creams (to soothe the itching).

b) Medication by mouth (to soothe the skin).

c) Cool baths. (to soothe the skin).

d) Ultraviolet exposure under physician supervision.

e) Cool compresses (to soothe the affected skin).

Psoriasis

Psoriasis is a chronic skin condition characterized by inflamed, red, raised areas that often develop as a silvery scales on the scalp, elbows, knees and lower back.

Causes of psoriasis:  The cause of psoriasis is unknown but it is thought to be caused by abnormally fast growing and shedding skin cells. The skin cells multiply so quickly, causing the skin to shed every three to four days. Though not contagious, the condition is hereditary; psoriasis is often recurrent and occurs in varying severities.

Symptoms: The following are the most common symptoms of psoriasis. However each individual may experience symptoms differently. Symptoms may in include-

a) Discold psoriasis: Also called plaque psoriasis. This type of psoriasis is the most common. Symptoms may include-

 Patches of red, raised skin on the trunk, arms, legs, knees, elbows, genitals and scalp.

 Nails may also thicken, become pitted and separated from the nail beds.

b) Guttate psoriasis:  This type of psoriasis mostly affects children. Symptoms may include many small patches of red, raised skin followed by sore throat.

c) Pustular psoriasis:  Symptoms may include small pustules all over the body or just on the palms, soles and other small areas.

 

Diagnosis of psoriasis:

Psoriasis is often diagnosed with the development of silvery scales. The physician usually diagnosis psoriasis with a medical examination of the nails and skins. Sometimes confirmation of diagnosis may be done with a skin biopsy.

Treatment for psoriasis:

Specific psoriasis treatment for psoriasis will be determined by the physician based on –

 Patient age, overall health and medical history.

 Severity of the condition.

 Patient tolerance for specific medications procedures or therapies.

 Expectation for the course of the condition.

 Patient opinion or preference.

The goal of treatment is to reduce inflammation and slow down the rapid growth and shedding of skin cells. The treatment may include-

i. Ointment and cream to moisturize the skin.

ii. Sun light or ultra violet light exposure.

iii. Steroid such as cortisone creams.

iv. Vitamin D cream.

v. Cream containing salicylic acid or coal tar.

vi. Anthralin that treat the thicker, hand patches of psoriasis.

vii. Methotrexate- an anti cancer drug that interrupt the growth of skin cells.

viii. Oral or optical retinoids.

ix. Immunosuppressive medication such as cyclosporins.

ROSACEA

Rosacea is a common skin condition that usually affects the face and eyes characterized by redness, pimples and broken blood vessels. Rosacea tends to begin after middle age or is more common in fair skinned people

.

Cause:  The cause of rosacea is unknown

Symptoms: Rosacea after begins with easy blushing and flushing of the facial skin. Eventually, redness will persist around the nose area, extending to the rest of the face. Rosacea has a variety of clinical symptoms and as classified into the following four types-

Types Symptoms

Pre rosacea Frequently episodes of blushing and flushing of the face and neck.

Vascula rosacea Swelling of blood vesel under the facial skin, leading to swollen, warm skin.

Inflammatory rosacea Formation of pimples and enlarged blood vesels on the face.

Rhinophyma Enarged oil glands in the nose and checks that cause on enlarged, bulbous red nose.

In addition approximately 50 % of the patient will have eye involvement.

Eye symptoms may include-

Redness

Burning

Tearing

Inflamed eyelids

Sensation of foreign object in the eye

 

Diagnosis of rosacea: 

Rosacea is usually diagnosed with a complete medical history and physical examination.

Treatment for rosacea:

Specific treatment for rosacea will be determined be the physician based on-

i. patient health, age and medical history

ii. extent of the rash

iii. patient tolerance for specific medications, procedures or therapies

iv. expectation for the course of the rash

v. patient’s opinion or preference

The goal of treatment is to control the symptoms associated with rosacea. Treatment may include-

i. Diet modifications such as – avoiding foods that decay the skin’s blood vessels such as caffeine, spicy foods and alcohol.

ii. Topical and oral antibiotic

iii. Glycolic acid peels

iv. Cortisone cream

v. Laser therapy

SEBACEOUS CYSTS

Sebaceous cysts are harmless slow growing bumps under the skin, often appearing on the scalp, face, ears, back or grain areas. The cysts usually contain dead skin and other skin particles.]

 

Treatment: 

Sebaceous cysts can usually be treated by a physician by puncturing the top and removing its contents. However, large cysts may reappear and may have to be surgically removed. If a cyst becomes infected, treatment may include administering antibiotics and then surgically removing the cyst.

Skin cancer

Skin cancer is a malignant tumor that grows in the skin cells strikes more people worldwide than any other form of cancer.

Types of skin cancer: There are three main types of skin cancer, including-

1. Basal cell carcinoma: Basal cell carcinoma account for 90% of all the skin cancer. This highly treatable cancer starts in the basal cell layer in the epidermis and grows very slowly. Basal cell carcinoma usually appears as a small shiny bump or nodules on the skin, mainly those areas exposed to the sun such as the head, neck, arms, hands and face. It commonly occurs among persons with light colored eyes and hair.

2. Squamous cell carcinoma: Squamous cell carcinoma although more aggressive than basal cell carcinoma, is highly treatable. Squamous cell carcinoma may appear as nodules, or red, scaly patches of skin and may be found on the face, ears, lips and mouth. However, squamous cell carcinoma may spread to other parts of the body. This type if skin cancer is usually found in fair skinned people.

3. Malignant melanoma: Although less common this type of skin cancer is the most deadly, accounting approximately 79% of all skin cancer deaths. Malignant melanoma stats in the melanocytes that produce pigment in the skin. It usually begins as male that then turns cancerous. This cancer may spread quickly. Malignant melanoma most often appear on fair skinned men and women but persons with all skin types may be affected.